Tuesday, June 25, 2019

The Sun before the Storm !

We said goodbye to our great Inverness House B&B hosts Dermot and Linette before making our way slowly to the Inverness train station for our 1.30pm train allowing Kev another day to recover from his tour induced fatigue.

En route to the station we crossed the Caledonian canal where H thought he'd try and get a barnacle cleaning job to get out of having to cycle up and over the infamous Applecross Pass in a days time.

Dragging a reluctant H on board our high speed train we headed to Strathcarron 2 hours distant and back in the general direction of the Isle of Skye.

Disembarking we took note of the wild and remote scenery as well as the "warming" temperature of 15c. With 25c predicted on Friday there's a pretty damned good chance that we'll both melt from the heatwave like conditions.

Our 4km cycle to our overnight accommodation from Strathcarron station was just about manageable on our newly repaired bikes (thx Mark on Monster Cycles Inverness)

For H the highlight of the trip to date was turning on the TV at our accommodation and finding that we had Sky TV and were able to watch the Aussies play the POMs in a World Cup 1 Dayer. To say that H was a little involved was a mighty understatement. If he'd been at the actual ground there's a good chance that he would have been hung from the nearest flag pole by his proverbials ! Patriotic he definitely is !

A walk down into town revealed a lovely sunny waterside setting but looming in the distance was  Ominous Bealach na Ba that we have to climb / walk tomorrow !.

Rest Day Inverness

Conspiracies reign !

Our B&B 


A dreary day in Inverness






Rest Day Inverness

After all the trials and tribulations of the last 2 weeks it was beautiful to be able to relax at the luxurious B&B of Redspokes (Adventure Cycling Company) Owner Dermott and partner Lynettte.

Both treated us like royalty allowing the use of the "Honeymoon Suite" with its football team sized spa to chill. After spending the previous night on a blow up mattress H thought he'd died and gone to heaven !

Thankfully our timing was perfect with a rest day forecast for severe weather. With this in mind we headed to the nearest bike shop for some on the run repairs. I needed some brake adjustments and a spoke repair while Kev settled for a replacement middle chain ring to deal with some under load slippage and the Tourette's that followed.

With the bikes in for repair we settled for a less than desireable Witherspoon's lunch before returning to our palatial accommodation for some afternoon rest and a pleasant evening with Dermot and Lynette.

Roll on the dreaded Applecross pass !

Monday, June 24, 2019

En route to Inverness - 120 kms / 900 metres climbing


On the Canal


Loch Ness 

WW2 Training area 



Kev's running on empty 





Fort Augustus

The steep climb out of Fort Augustus


Wild views on to of the climb !

Beautiful Loch Ness 


Approaching Inverness 

Our Luxury B&B

On the Bus Henley !

Our friendly B&B hosts had provided H a lifeline overnight by suggesting that he could access a bus to halve today's expected 100 plus km distance. Kev has been suffering cumulative tour fatigue as well as I suspect some side effects from an Aussie bug that has made the tour with him!

With a big day ahead and a Co-op shop breakfast of Sausage Rolls and bananas, we launched straight into a canal induced headwind. This was tough going as we headed to Gairlochy before we venturing  off road on a very rough forest trail that followed the huge connected Lochs.

After H had swallowed his optimal share of midges while taking an early morning break, we continued on to Fort Augustus separately with Kev aiming fair and square for the Inverness bus.

At Fort Augustus Kev placed plastic bags around his wheels and chain and adopted pleading puppy dog style eyes to be finally allowed by the F1 style coach driver to board the bus to Inverness.

I kept the ride going taking the high road (literally) on a huge climb out of Fort Augustus sweating gallons in the afternoon sun.

Hill climbed it was a long but magical cycle on a quiet B road that ran right alongside the Oily Black coloured Loch Ness - talk about a dramatic and beautiful setting.

Late afternoon and after a number of circuits of Inverness Kev and selfs paths finally converged at the luxury 4 star B&B of Redspokes Cycle company owner Dermott and partner Lynette.

 Being a frequent Redspokes cycle customer Dermott had kindly invited Kev and I to stay in the "honeymoon suite" of this incredible establishment.

After 120 kms and a huge amount of climbing there were no arguments offered and definitely no matrimonial thoughts on my mind

En route to Fort William - 62 kms / 620 metres climbing

Neptune Stairs Fort William 

Glenfinan Railway Carriages B&B & Cafe


En route to Fort William 

H recovers with soup at the Glenfinnan Railway Cafe 

Fort William


Ben Nevis in the Background at Fort William

Saying goodbye to Pommie Kev and Julia at Back of Kennoch B&B

Neptunes Staircase Fort William



Fort William or Bust !

With breakfast and the summer solstice behind us it was time to farewell our good UK friends Kev & Julia who'd accompanied us on the Outer Hebrides / Skye leg.

After Kev and Julia had departed heading back to their starting point at Connel near Oban, Aussie Kev and I flew the drone terrorising local seagulls to get some good shots of "Back of Kennoch's" beach.

With the drone packed away we were on the road soon silently grumbling at Pommie Kev's earlier promise that the day to Fort William would only involve 400 metres of climbing .

400 metres my arse (sorry Kev!) ! In fact we climbed almost that much in the first couple of hours in the days cycle !!

Our bike verge / path soon ran out as we cycled along the occasionally busy A835 Ideas of potential scenic detours were put on hold with Aussie Kev's cumulative tour fatigue reaching the "red" zone !

Our route had some very steep climbs out of beautiful Lochs and valleys. En route we spied the famous flying Scottish steam train the Jacobite which provided a romantic image as it raced across the incredibly green landscape. The romantic notion though was soon destroyed by groups of speeding Porches and Motorcycles that seemed to treat the roads like an F1 test track !

At the half way mark and with temperatures nearly hitting 20c, we had a restorative soup and toastie at the railway cafe of Glenfinnan well known for its aqueduct styled railway bridge that featured prominently in the Harry Potter films.

With lunch downed and almost refreshed we cycled the remaining 25 kms into Fort William.

Up in front I arrived just in time to see the stairs of Neptune (multiple lochs) and an adjacent swing bridge in action to allow passage of multiple yachts.

H arriving soon after had as much energy left as a Duracell Bunny without batteries. Kev was gone, spent, kaput, finished ! If he'd had the energy he would have thrown himself into the canal right there and then !!

Fortunately the fact that our accommodation was nearby seemed to revive him. Kev's luck soon deserted him scoring a blow up mattress and a sleeping bag as his bed for the evening ! You just can't help bad luck !

Our hosts though were very friendly and soon had us well directed around a town stunningly set against the back drop of the imposing Ben Nevis Mtn at 1345 metres the highest in the UK .

With tomorrow an expected 100km plus day and H just short of needing to be buried it was now time to urgently come up with a plan B !

Friday, June 21, 2019

En route to Arisaig - 80 kms / 750 metres climbing

Portree Harbour and coloured houses

Dominant Cuillin Mtns 


Cafe at Armadale

Ferry to Mallaig



En route from Portree

The Ferry we missed at Armadale

Our B&B Back of Kennoch

Near Back of Kennoch 
Beautiful morning views in Portree





Old Road on Isle of Skye

Beautiful sunset at Back of Kennoch

Is Sex Better than Hill Climbing - The Jury is In !

The discussion came up a few days ago when I spied an on line article that suggested that Cycle Hill Climbing was very much like sex, slow and rhythmic and then you're fuc&ed when you get to the top !!

Gasping for air after having climbed up our 100th small hill for the day Julia gave her opinion remarking that there was no contest as hill climbing sucks !

For those wondering how Henley and I survived the night before in a double bed you can stop worrying as our manly images are still intact ! After yesterday's bum buster I was so buggered that I simply grabbed the beds doona and slept on the floor leaving H with bugger all bed coverings. Admittedly though the sight of H in his frilly nightie in the morning was pretty damned enticing !

After yesterday's tough ride we left lateish - 9-45 following Pommie Kev and Julia in the sun. At 9.46 it started bucketing down forcing us to scamper to the tourist info office until the rain had passed over and the sun had returned at 9.48 !

This was a mixed day of superb scenery, tough riding, variable weather conditions and very uncomfortable cycling as we rode on an extremely busy A road (with no verge) competing with high  speed trucks and camper vans.

Thankfully most of the drivers were courteous enough but the speed they were going past was pretty unnerving even for the most experienced of us - Skye is just simply not geared for cycling.

Eventually we caught up with Pommie Kev and Julia at Broadford for a welcome coffee although Henley's shout somehow equated to an extra large one for him and a small one for me. I'm looking at payback which means a thimble for him when it's my shout next !

Turning off the busy of Kyle of Lochalsh road to the ferry at Armadale was almost pleasant with most of the busy traffic gone, the sun out and some superb scenery !

I say almost pleasant as the last 20kms to the ferry were almost exclusively into a headwind that had Aussie Kev just about spent and even Julia swearing (Gosh, Darn etc etc) !

A sign en route had indicated that our aimed for 3pm ferry was in fact leaving at 2.30 which caused us to throttle back to target the next one at 4.30 pm. To Pommie Kev and my horror we rounded the all but last corner with 1 small hill climb left realising that our ferry was departing at 3 giving us 5 minutes to make the ramp.

Racing to the dock we made it with a couple of minutes to spare, PK teeing up the tickets, but unfortunately the last stretch was too much for the others so PK and I watched forlornly as the ferry sailed off just as H and Julia cycled in. Still all was not lost as we sat back having a cuppa with a stunning vista in front of us

We boarded our now 4.30pm ferry complete with bus loads of "Septics" as H calls them (Yanks) for a magical 30 minute ride to Mallaig past a stunning coastline of craggy mountains which signified mainland Scotland and more hills to be climbed !

Disembarking we cycled past the famous Jacobite steam train and on to Back of Bennoch near Arisaig some 10kms distant. We were now well and truly knackered by our days ordeal

Our B&B helped restore our spirits somewhat. The B&B was beautifully situated overlooking beaches that were used to film Local Hero with the Skye Peninsular starkly prominent in the background

All that was left to do was to walk to a pub at Arisaig 2-3kms distant along country lanes on a lovely Summer Solstice evening enjoy our meal and return in time for a magical sunset - story book stuff indeed !


Thursday, June 20, 2019

En route to Portree - 90kms / 1250 metres climbing


Wild coastline heading toTarbert

The road to the ferry at Tarbert 

Ferry to Uig

Climbing out of Uig on the Isle of Skye

Isle of Skye heading to Portree



Wild and remote Skye
 

Close to Portree











Back to OZ !

After nearly 2 months on the go it was time to head home. A fabulous journey by Kev and self around the beautiful Scottish Highlands notch...