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| Long and lonely roads |
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| Near Gairloch |
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| Our accommodation at Big Sands |
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| Spectacular sunset |
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| Some drone time over Big Sands |
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| Big Sands |
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| Big Sands |
Friday, June 28, 2019
En route to Big Sands - 72kms / 600 metres climbing
It’s Hot and largely flat !
"What a great cycle" said H half way through the days ride !
"Is it the scenery" I replied ?
"No" said Kev."
"Is it the weather then" ? "
"No" said Kev.
"Was it the bloody mountains" I replied now getting a little exasperated ?
"No" again said Kev !
"Well what the bloody hell is it then that's made the day so bloody great".?
"There have been bugger all hills"Henley finally replied satisfying myself that H had indeed finally found his Nirvana !
We got thrown out of our Air BNB by 9am (not bad when you can't get in till 6 and get slugged 105 pounds for a room that includes only continental breakfast) stocked up at the local shop and hit the road on an expected scorcher of a Scottish day - 25c !
Our route on a mainly single track road to Kinlochwe was pretty featureless other than an occasional Loch and / or stark looking hill.
With another late check in to be had at Big Sands we killed some time having an early lunch at Kinlochwe marvelling at the hundreds of motorcycles that thundered by obviously inspired by the Scotland 500 promos that have turned this area into a sort of Route 66
30 more kms on mainly main roads deposited us in lovely looking Gairloch where we again killed time. I took on coffee and cake while H worked on turning himself into a lobster once more sitting in the sun on this warm afternoon
Finally we loaded up with groceries and made our way 7km out of town passing beautiful late afternoon seaside scenery to Big Sands a sort of village with a sort of numbering system that made no sense at all !
After scouring various houses we finally located our small but charming cabin with eating facilities and 2 complimentary cold pale ales which we both savoured while sitting outside in the cooling evening.
With some hard yards done over that past few days it's nice to be able to finally chill !
Sent from my iPad
"Is it the scenery" I replied ?
"No" said Kev."
"Is it the weather then" ? "
"No" said Kev.
"Was it the bloody mountains" I replied now getting a little exasperated ?
"No" again said Kev !
"Well what the bloody hell is it then that's made the day so bloody great".?
"There have been bugger all hills"Henley finally replied satisfying myself that H had indeed finally found his Nirvana !
We got thrown out of our Air BNB by 9am (not bad when you can't get in till 6 and get slugged 105 pounds for a room that includes only continental breakfast) stocked up at the local shop and hit the road on an expected scorcher of a Scottish day - 25c !
Our route on a mainly single track road to Kinlochwe was pretty featureless other than an occasional Loch and / or stark looking hill.
With another late check in to be had at Big Sands we killed some time having an early lunch at Kinlochwe marvelling at the hundreds of motorcycles that thundered by obviously inspired by the Scotland 500 promos that have turned this area into a sort of Route 66
30 more kms on mainly main roads deposited us in lovely looking Gairloch where we again killed time. I took on coffee and cake while H worked on turning himself into a lobster once more sitting in the sun on this warm afternoon
Finally we loaded up with groceries and made our way 7km out of town passing beautiful late afternoon seaside scenery to Big Sands a sort of village with a sort of numbering system that made no sense at all !
After scouring various houses we finally located our small but charming cabin with eating facilities and 2 complimentary cold pale ales which we both savoured while sitting outside in the cooling evening.
With some hard yards done over that past few days it's nice to be able to finally chill !
Sent from my iPad
Thursday, June 27, 2019
En route to Sheildag - 42kms / 650 metres of climbing
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| Lovely scenery en route |
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| The first cafe entering Sheildag ! |
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| It's never flat ! |
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| H's great impersonation of roadkill |
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| Looking back at our route out of Applecross |
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| Sheildag |
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| Time for a snooze while i fly the drone |
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| Brunch in Applecross |
Remotely Stunning !
After yesterday's big climb there was more on the cards today although the short distance of 40kms was enough motivation to keep H from slitting his wrists !
After a noisy night in our reformed mental institution / youth hostel (an apt place for us) we cycled back into town for a meal late enough to be called brunch.
The issue we had today as we headed further into remote Nth West Scotland was trying to fit in with our b&b's in terms of check in times as well as availability of meals / wifi / phone !
With a 6pm check in time we didn't hit the road until nearly 11am after first breakfasting at the Applecross Cafe where we stocked up on extra protein for a day of more climbing.
Finally peddling, the early morning sun gave way to a strong cold headwind. The conditions seemed fitting as we cycled along a superbly rugged coastline with close views of the peaks of the Isle of Skye.
There were some serious little pinches on this section. So steep in fact that I remarked to H that a guy we met at the youth hostel out walking his dog had a very good chance of overtaking us given the speed we were going. In Scotland this is aptly named as lumpy terrain !
Swinging around to the Sth East the murky conditions suddenly disappeared replaced by a magnificent afternoon of warmth and that thing rarely seen in Scotland called the sun !
While the weather improved the hills didn't and actually became more frequent. Combined with the added pain of being on single lane roads with passing bays often half way up a hill resulted in us collectively groaning every time we went around a corner !
Every rest break saw Henley doing better and better impersonations of "road kill" until finally we cycled down into the stunningly located Highland town of Sheildag.
We didn't make it past the first shop ! H settling for a much needed bowl of soup while I went for the customary cyclist feed of coffee and cake, followed by ice cream, followed by a coke followed by ....... "well it was bloody hard work" !
With our check in time not till 6pm we lounged around on the foreshore for a couple of hours in the sun with H taking up prime position for close inspection of nearby grass follicles ! Whenever someone walked by him I just simply said "Aussie Road Kill" !
Finally checked in we were able to return to the foreshore for dinner at the only eaterie in town while enjoying a superb sunlit evening !
Sent from my iPad
After a noisy night in our reformed mental institution / youth hostel (an apt place for us) we cycled back into town for a meal late enough to be called brunch.
The issue we had today as we headed further into remote Nth West Scotland was trying to fit in with our b&b's in terms of check in times as well as availability of meals / wifi / phone !
With a 6pm check in time we didn't hit the road until nearly 11am after first breakfasting at the Applecross Cafe where we stocked up on extra protein for a day of more climbing.
Finally peddling, the early morning sun gave way to a strong cold headwind. The conditions seemed fitting as we cycled along a superbly rugged coastline with close views of the peaks of the Isle of Skye.
There were some serious little pinches on this section. So steep in fact that I remarked to H that a guy we met at the youth hostel out walking his dog had a very good chance of overtaking us given the speed we were going. In Scotland this is aptly named as lumpy terrain !
Swinging around to the Sth East the murky conditions suddenly disappeared replaced by a magnificent afternoon of warmth and that thing rarely seen in Scotland called the sun !
While the weather improved the hills didn't and actually became more frequent. Combined with the added pain of being on single lane roads with passing bays often half way up a hill resulted in us collectively groaning every time we went around a corner !
Every rest break saw Henley doing better and better impersonations of "road kill" until finally we cycled down into the stunningly located Highland town of Sheildag.
We didn't make it past the first shop ! H settling for a much needed bowl of soup while I went for the customary cyclist feed of coffee and cake, followed by ice cream, followed by a coke followed by ....... "well it was bloody hard work" !
With our check in time not till 6pm we lounged around on the foreshore for a couple of hours in the sun with H taking up prime position for close inspection of nearby grass follicles ! Whenever someone walked by him I just simply said "Aussie Road Kill" !
Finally checked in we were able to return to the foreshore for dinner at the only eaterie in town while enjoying a superb sunlit evening !
Sent from my iPad
En route to Applecross - 43kms / 659 metres climbing
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| The road narrows |
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| Kev a trifle nervous at the start of the climb ! |
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| Finally the top ! |
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| One of the passing bays ! |
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| Great views looking back down the climb ! |
Day of Reckoning !
It was the day we'd both been gearing up for, the crossing of the infamous Baleach na Ba. At nearly 900 metres and with some of the steepest road climbs (20% +) in Scotland thsi really is an iconic cycle.
The day didn't get off to the greatest of starts when I awoke to an overpowering smell and for once it wasn't Henley.
Opening our bedroom door confirmed a vomit like odour which our friendly b&b host soon confirmed was caused by one of his large German Shepard dogs, right beside our breakfast table !
Despite it being cleared up it was a tough gig trying to eat a full cooked Scottish breakfast with the gag reflex about ready to go into action !
Making a hasty exit we geared up heading out of town by way of the local Post Office where H duly posted back our room key from our stay with Dermott & Lynette in Inverness - not a bad way to ingratiate yourself.
We didn't have too long to wonder about how steep our climb was going to be when we got slammed by a 20 per center leaving Lochcarron. This isn't even the Applecross climb I said in pained breathing to H.
Eventually we entered a beautiful wildness setting and came across the Applecross turn off with its sign splattered with stickers to indicate its touristy significance.
With 2 days off the bikes we were both cycling well (maybe at least for the first 3-4 kms). The climb gradients kicked off at between 5-10%. Soon though the road narrowed with the verge disappearing while the climb gradient got real serious.
Given we were cycling fully loaded touring bikes it was a job to get to the next passing bay to allow car build ups to get past us. Most drivers were sympathetic but the odd one or two took exception to us being on this narrow mountain road.
As the scenery got more breathtaking so did the roads steepness until we were eventually forced to push our bikes for the last km or so.
The end of the climb finished with short sharp switchbacks that once again provided for stunning views and before we knew it we'd reached the top with Kev grateful to still be alive.
While recovering I took the opportunity to fly the drone over the surrounds before we descended at speed down into the small village of Applecross with outstanding views across the water to Raasay.
After having a welcome celebratory coffee and checking in to our Youth Hostel 3kms out of town, we cycled back in to have dinner on this lovely evening overlooking the shimmering sea.
Tomorrow we continue along the Scottish 500 route to Sheildag where hills are guaranteed once more!
Sent from my iPad
The day didn't get off to the greatest of starts when I awoke to an overpowering smell and for once it wasn't Henley.
Opening our bedroom door confirmed a vomit like odour which our friendly b&b host soon confirmed was caused by one of his large German Shepard dogs, right beside our breakfast table !
Despite it being cleared up it was a tough gig trying to eat a full cooked Scottish breakfast with the gag reflex about ready to go into action !
Making a hasty exit we geared up heading out of town by way of the local Post Office where H duly posted back our room key from our stay with Dermott & Lynette in Inverness - not a bad way to ingratiate yourself.
We didn't have too long to wonder about how steep our climb was going to be when we got slammed by a 20 per center leaving Lochcarron. This isn't even the Applecross climb I said in pained breathing to H.
Eventually we entered a beautiful wildness setting and came across the Applecross turn off with its sign splattered with stickers to indicate its touristy significance.
With 2 days off the bikes we were both cycling well (maybe at least for the first 3-4 kms). The climb gradients kicked off at between 5-10%. Soon though the road narrowed with the verge disappearing while the climb gradient got real serious.
Given we were cycling fully loaded touring bikes it was a job to get to the next passing bay to allow car build ups to get past us. Most drivers were sympathetic but the odd one or two took exception to us being on this narrow mountain road.
As the scenery got more breathtaking so did the roads steepness until we were eventually forced to push our bikes for the last km or so.
The end of the climb finished with short sharp switchbacks that once again provided for stunning views and before we knew it we'd reached the top with Kev grateful to still be alive.
While recovering I took the opportunity to fly the drone over the surrounds before we descended at speed down into the small village of Applecross with outstanding views across the water to Raasay.
After having a welcome celebratory coffee and checking in to our Youth Hostel 3kms out of town, we cycled back in to have dinner on this lovely evening overlooking the shimmering sea.
Tomorrow we continue along the Scottish 500 route to Sheildag where hills are guaranteed once more!
Sent from my iPad
Tuesday, June 25, 2019
Off to Lochcarron !
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| Interesting pub sign in Inverness ! |
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| Looking out from the Strathcarron Pub |
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| Strathcarron |
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| Saying goodbye in Inverness to our 2 great hosts Dermott and Linette ! |
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| Strathcarron |
The Sun before the Storm !
We said goodbye to our great Inverness House B&B hosts Dermot and Linette before making our way slowly to the Inverness train station for our 1.30pm train allowing Kev another day to recover from his tour induced fatigue.
En route to the station we crossed the Caledonian canal where H thought he'd try and get a barnacle cleaning job to get out of having to cycle up and over the infamous Applecross Pass in a days time.
Dragging a reluctant H on board our high speed train we headed to Strathcarron 2 hours distant and back in the general direction of the Isle of Skye.
Disembarking we took note of the wild and remote scenery as well as the "warming" temperature of 15c. With 25c predicted on Friday there's a pretty damned good chance that we'll both melt from the heatwave like conditions.
Our 4km cycle to our overnight accommodation from Strathcarron station was just about manageable on our newly repaired bikes (thx Mark on Monster Cycles Inverness)
For H the highlight of the trip to date was turning on the TV at our accommodation and finding that we had Sky TV and were able to watch the Aussies play the POMs in a World Cup 1 Dayer. To say that H was a little involved was a mighty understatement. If he'd been at the actual ground there's a good chance that he would have been hung from the nearest flag pole by his proverbials ! Patriotic he definitely is !
A walk down into town revealed a lovely sunny waterside setting but looming in the distance was Ominous Bealach na Ba that we have to climb / walk tomorrow !.
En route to the station we crossed the Caledonian canal where H thought he'd try and get a barnacle cleaning job to get out of having to cycle up and over the infamous Applecross Pass in a days time.
Dragging a reluctant H on board our high speed train we headed to Strathcarron 2 hours distant and back in the general direction of the Isle of Skye.
Disembarking we took note of the wild and remote scenery as well as the "warming" temperature of 15c. With 25c predicted on Friday there's a pretty damned good chance that we'll both melt from the heatwave like conditions.
Our 4km cycle to our overnight accommodation from Strathcarron station was just about manageable on our newly repaired bikes (thx Mark on Monster Cycles Inverness)
For H the highlight of the trip to date was turning on the TV at our accommodation and finding that we had Sky TV and were able to watch the Aussies play the POMs in a World Cup 1 Dayer. To say that H was a little involved was a mighty understatement. If he'd been at the actual ground there's a good chance that he would have been hung from the nearest flag pole by his proverbials ! Patriotic he definitely is !
A walk down into town revealed a lovely sunny waterside setting but looming in the distance was Ominous Bealach na Ba that we have to climb / walk tomorrow !.
Rest Day Inverness
After all the trials and tribulations of the last 2 weeks it was beautiful to be able to relax at the luxurious B&B of Redspokes (Adventure Cycling Company) Owner Dermott and partner Lynettte.
Both treated us like royalty allowing the use of the "Honeymoon Suite" with its football team sized spa to chill. After spending the previous night on a blow up mattress H thought he'd died and gone to heaven !
Thankfully our timing was perfect with a rest day forecast for severe weather. With this in mind we headed to the nearest bike shop for some on the run repairs. I needed some brake adjustments and a spoke repair while Kev settled for a replacement middle chain ring to deal with some under load slippage and the Tourette's that followed.
With the bikes in for repair we settled for a less than desireable Witherspoon's lunch before returning to our palatial accommodation for some afternoon rest and a pleasant evening with Dermot and Lynette.
Roll on the dreaded Applecross pass !
Both treated us like royalty allowing the use of the "Honeymoon Suite" with its football team sized spa to chill. After spending the previous night on a blow up mattress H thought he'd died and gone to heaven !
Thankfully our timing was perfect with a rest day forecast for severe weather. With this in mind we headed to the nearest bike shop for some on the run repairs. I needed some brake adjustments and a spoke repair while Kev settled for a replacement middle chain ring to deal with some under load slippage and the Tourette's that followed.
With the bikes in for repair we settled for a less than desireable Witherspoon's lunch before returning to our palatial accommodation for some afternoon rest and a pleasant evening with Dermot and Lynette.
Roll on the dreaded Applecross pass !
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