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| The gloom sets in |
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| Ullapool on arrival |
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| Poolewe - try getting down this in the middle of the night ! |
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| Wild and remote after leaving Dundonnel |
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| Kev soaked thru taking a breather after descending down to the main road to Ullapool ! |
Sunday, June 30, 2019
En route to Ullapool - 82 kms / 1,000 metres climbing
It Had to Happen !
This was the Scotland that I so vividly remember !
Wild remote scenery, lashing rain, strong cold winds and a sound i hadn't heard for at least a few days ... " Fckg piece of shit" said Henley as he nearly face planted after once again snagging his wet weather jacket on his seat when dismounting !
We were reluctant to leave our lovely self contained Bothy this morning although I must admit nocturnal visits to the toilet had a significant risk factor with its near vertical steps !
On the road we knew we were going to get hit by rain it was just a matter of when !
We didn't have to wait long as we climbed to exit Poolewe harbour and down she came staying with us for most of a soaking day.
Our wild and remote landscape matched the gloomy conditions as we made our way to remote Dundonnel for a soup warming lunch. Here we shared brief company with a group of cyclists from the Wilderness Scotland cycling company. We'd been bumping into the guides from this company for the last couple of days and they'd been exceedingly helpful in offering assistance if we needed. H took them up on their offer just prior to Dundonnel stealing a couple of chocolate bars after we'd found Poolewe's shop closed this morning.
Slightly drier than when we arrived we launched from Dundonnel straight back into the rain on a never ending climb that made its way along a huge gorge before finishing on a wild and open plateau.
Surviving the strong cross winds on the plateau we descended at speed (50kms /hr with both brakes on for me!) for a good 5kms before joining on to the main A road for a 20km soaking journey into Ullapool.
I raced into Ullapool to get off the A road and then waited for the bedraggled wet and truly buggered mess (H) that followed.
Before he could complain too much I had teed up a couple of coffees while H parked his bike abandoned style right next to the cafes entrance ("I don't give a F%ck was something like H's reply" !)
Coffees downed we both started to come back to life as we killed an hour before we could check into our Air BnB. Here we promptly hung up all our wet weather gear albeit a bit hard with no hangers and no cupboard !
The beauty of cycle touring is that we get to do it all over again tomorrow with similar conditions expected with a top temperature of just 11C! !
Sent from my iPad
Wild remote scenery, lashing rain, strong cold winds and a sound i hadn't heard for at least a few days ... " Fckg piece of shit" said Henley as he nearly face planted after once again snagging his wet weather jacket on his seat when dismounting !
We were reluctant to leave our lovely self contained Bothy this morning although I must admit nocturnal visits to the toilet had a significant risk factor with its near vertical steps !
On the road we knew we were going to get hit by rain it was just a matter of when !
We didn't have to wait long as we climbed to exit Poolewe harbour and down she came staying with us for most of a soaking day.
Our wild and remote landscape matched the gloomy conditions as we made our way to remote Dundonnel for a soup warming lunch. Here we shared brief company with a group of cyclists from the Wilderness Scotland cycling company. We'd been bumping into the guides from this company for the last couple of days and they'd been exceedingly helpful in offering assistance if we needed. H took them up on their offer just prior to Dundonnel stealing a couple of chocolate bars after we'd found Poolewe's shop closed this morning.
Slightly drier than when we arrived we launched from Dundonnel straight back into the rain on a never ending climb that made its way along a huge gorge before finishing on a wild and open plateau.
Surviving the strong cross winds on the plateau we descended at speed (50kms /hr with both brakes on for me!) for a good 5kms before joining on to the main A road for a 20km soaking journey into Ullapool.
I raced into Ullapool to get off the A road and then waited for the bedraggled wet and truly buggered mess (H) that followed.
Before he could complain too much I had teed up a couple of coffees while H parked his bike abandoned style right next to the cafes entrance ("I don't give a F%ck was something like H's reply" !)
Coffees downed we both started to come back to life as we killed an hour before we could check into our Air BnB. Here we promptly hung up all our wet weather gear albeit a bit hard with no hangers and no cupboard !
The beauty of cycle touring is that we get to do it all over again tomorrow with similar conditions expected with a top temperature of just 11C! !
Sent from my iPad
Saturday, June 29, 2019
En route to Poolewee - 20 kms / 180 metres climbing
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| Our Bothy in Poolewe |
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| Drone over Poolewe |
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| Just outside Poolewe |
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| Waiting to check into our B&B |
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| Killing time |
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| Poolewe |
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| Not our route thank goodness |
When is a Rest Day not a Rest Day ?
It was an effort to get Henley mobilised for our huge 20km cycle day today. First he had to be extricated from his sleeping position by the cabins fridge near the front door (he'd taken his bunk bed down and placed it on the kitchen floor) and then had to be torn away from the TV set after watching the classic comedy "The God's Must be Crazy"!
In Kev's defence there was no need to rush as we only had 20km to do for the whole day as we were saving for tomorrow's assault on Ullapool a further 90kms distant.
Predictably our exit from picturesque Gairloch was straight up a bloody big hill ! We only had 180 metres climbing for the day to do and 179 of them were on this one hill !
I'm sure we both swore under our breath wishing the Romans had made it this far North and built some straight and flat roads ! The Scots and the English on the other hand just seem to love having their villages at the bottom of hills the opposite of that often found in Europe !
After Climbing Gairloch's hill it was a pretty sedate ride past Lochs and ridges to the lovely village of Poolewee.
Poolewee sits on a protected deep water harbour and was a staging place for convoys to Russia in WW2.
Poignantly among the memorials around town was one highlighting the fact that in 1942 only 11 ships of a convoy's original 36 ships made it to their destination !
The afternoon was again spent killing time at the local pubs outdoor area drinking multiple cups of tea in the sun (thankfully not as hot as yesterday) while we waited for our 4pm check in time
We finally checked in to our lovely revamped Bothy where H taking a leaf out of my old book turned a lovely apartment into a construction disaster area !
Tomorrow we get serious with an 80km cycle into Ullapool !
Sent from my iPad
In Kev's defence there was no need to rush as we only had 20km to do for the whole day as we were saving for tomorrow's assault on Ullapool a further 90kms distant.
Predictably our exit from picturesque Gairloch was straight up a bloody big hill ! We only had 180 metres climbing for the day to do and 179 of them were on this one hill !
I'm sure we both swore under our breath wishing the Romans had made it this far North and built some straight and flat roads ! The Scots and the English on the other hand just seem to love having their villages at the bottom of hills the opposite of that often found in Europe !
After Climbing Gairloch's hill it was a pretty sedate ride past Lochs and ridges to the lovely village of Poolewee.
Poolewee sits on a protected deep water harbour and was a staging place for convoys to Russia in WW2.
Poignantly among the memorials around town was one highlighting the fact that in 1942 only 11 ships of a convoy's original 36 ships made it to their destination !
The afternoon was again spent killing time at the local pubs outdoor area drinking multiple cups of tea in the sun (thankfully not as hot as yesterday) while we waited for our 4pm check in time
We finally checked in to our lovely revamped Bothy where H taking a leaf out of my old book turned a lovely apartment into a construction disaster area !
Tomorrow we get serious with an 80km cycle into Ullapool !
Sent from my iPad
Friday, June 28, 2019
En route to Big Sands - 72kms / 600 metres climbing
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| Long and lonely roads |
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| Near Gairloch |
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| Our accommodation at Big Sands |
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| Spectacular sunset |
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| Some drone time over Big Sands |
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| Big Sands |
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| Big Sands |
It’s Hot and largely flat !
"What a great cycle" said H half way through the days ride !
"Is it the scenery" I replied ?
"No" said Kev."
"Is it the weather then" ? "
"No" said Kev.
"Was it the bloody mountains" I replied now getting a little exasperated ?
"No" again said Kev !
"Well what the bloody hell is it then that's made the day so bloody great".?
"There have been bugger all hills"Henley finally replied satisfying myself that H had indeed finally found his Nirvana !
We got thrown out of our Air BNB by 9am (not bad when you can't get in till 6 and get slugged 105 pounds for a room that includes only continental breakfast) stocked up at the local shop and hit the road on an expected scorcher of a Scottish day - 25c !
Our route on a mainly single track road to Kinlochwe was pretty featureless other than an occasional Loch and / or stark looking hill.
With another late check in to be had at Big Sands we killed some time having an early lunch at Kinlochwe marvelling at the hundreds of motorcycles that thundered by obviously inspired by the Scotland 500 promos that have turned this area into a sort of Route 66
30 more kms on mainly main roads deposited us in lovely looking Gairloch where we again killed time. I took on coffee and cake while H worked on turning himself into a lobster once more sitting in the sun on this warm afternoon
Finally we loaded up with groceries and made our way 7km out of town passing beautiful late afternoon seaside scenery to Big Sands a sort of village with a sort of numbering system that made no sense at all !
After scouring various houses we finally located our small but charming cabin with eating facilities and 2 complimentary cold pale ales which we both savoured while sitting outside in the cooling evening.
With some hard yards done over that past few days it's nice to be able to finally chill !
Sent from my iPad
"Is it the scenery" I replied ?
"No" said Kev."
"Is it the weather then" ? "
"No" said Kev.
"Was it the bloody mountains" I replied now getting a little exasperated ?
"No" again said Kev !
"Well what the bloody hell is it then that's made the day so bloody great".?
"There have been bugger all hills"Henley finally replied satisfying myself that H had indeed finally found his Nirvana !
We got thrown out of our Air BNB by 9am (not bad when you can't get in till 6 and get slugged 105 pounds for a room that includes only continental breakfast) stocked up at the local shop and hit the road on an expected scorcher of a Scottish day - 25c !
Our route on a mainly single track road to Kinlochwe was pretty featureless other than an occasional Loch and / or stark looking hill.
With another late check in to be had at Big Sands we killed some time having an early lunch at Kinlochwe marvelling at the hundreds of motorcycles that thundered by obviously inspired by the Scotland 500 promos that have turned this area into a sort of Route 66
30 more kms on mainly main roads deposited us in lovely looking Gairloch where we again killed time. I took on coffee and cake while H worked on turning himself into a lobster once more sitting in the sun on this warm afternoon
Finally we loaded up with groceries and made our way 7km out of town passing beautiful late afternoon seaside scenery to Big Sands a sort of village with a sort of numbering system that made no sense at all !
After scouring various houses we finally located our small but charming cabin with eating facilities and 2 complimentary cold pale ales which we both savoured while sitting outside in the cooling evening.
With some hard yards done over that past few days it's nice to be able to finally chill !
Sent from my iPad
Thursday, June 27, 2019
En route to Sheildag - 42kms / 650 metres of climbing
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| Lovely scenery en route |
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| The first cafe entering Sheildag ! |
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| It's never flat ! |
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| H's great impersonation of roadkill |
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| Looking back at our route out of Applecross |
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| Sheildag |
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| Time for a snooze while i fly the drone |
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| Brunch in Applecross |
Remotely Stunning !
After yesterday's big climb there was more on the cards today although the short distance of 40kms was enough motivation to keep H from slitting his wrists !
After a noisy night in our reformed mental institution / youth hostel (an apt place for us) we cycled back into town for a meal late enough to be called brunch.
The issue we had today as we headed further into remote Nth West Scotland was trying to fit in with our b&b's in terms of check in times as well as availability of meals / wifi / phone !
With a 6pm check in time we didn't hit the road until nearly 11am after first breakfasting at the Applecross Cafe where we stocked up on extra protein for a day of more climbing.
Finally peddling, the early morning sun gave way to a strong cold headwind. The conditions seemed fitting as we cycled along a superbly rugged coastline with close views of the peaks of the Isle of Skye.
There were some serious little pinches on this section. So steep in fact that I remarked to H that a guy we met at the youth hostel out walking his dog had a very good chance of overtaking us given the speed we were going. In Scotland this is aptly named as lumpy terrain !
Swinging around to the Sth East the murky conditions suddenly disappeared replaced by a magnificent afternoon of warmth and that thing rarely seen in Scotland called the sun !
While the weather improved the hills didn't and actually became more frequent. Combined with the added pain of being on single lane roads with passing bays often half way up a hill resulted in us collectively groaning every time we went around a corner !
Every rest break saw Henley doing better and better impersonations of "road kill" until finally we cycled down into the stunningly located Highland town of Sheildag.
We didn't make it past the first shop ! H settling for a much needed bowl of soup while I went for the customary cyclist feed of coffee and cake, followed by ice cream, followed by a coke followed by ....... "well it was bloody hard work" !
With our check in time not till 6pm we lounged around on the foreshore for a couple of hours in the sun with H taking up prime position for close inspection of nearby grass follicles ! Whenever someone walked by him I just simply said "Aussie Road Kill" !
Finally checked in we were able to return to the foreshore for dinner at the only eaterie in town while enjoying a superb sunlit evening !
Sent from my iPad
After a noisy night in our reformed mental institution / youth hostel (an apt place for us) we cycled back into town for a meal late enough to be called brunch.
The issue we had today as we headed further into remote Nth West Scotland was trying to fit in with our b&b's in terms of check in times as well as availability of meals / wifi / phone !
With a 6pm check in time we didn't hit the road until nearly 11am after first breakfasting at the Applecross Cafe where we stocked up on extra protein for a day of more climbing.
Finally peddling, the early morning sun gave way to a strong cold headwind. The conditions seemed fitting as we cycled along a superbly rugged coastline with close views of the peaks of the Isle of Skye.
There were some serious little pinches on this section. So steep in fact that I remarked to H that a guy we met at the youth hostel out walking his dog had a very good chance of overtaking us given the speed we were going. In Scotland this is aptly named as lumpy terrain !
Swinging around to the Sth East the murky conditions suddenly disappeared replaced by a magnificent afternoon of warmth and that thing rarely seen in Scotland called the sun !
While the weather improved the hills didn't and actually became more frequent. Combined with the added pain of being on single lane roads with passing bays often half way up a hill resulted in us collectively groaning every time we went around a corner !
Every rest break saw Henley doing better and better impersonations of "road kill" until finally we cycled down into the stunningly located Highland town of Sheildag.
We didn't make it past the first shop ! H settling for a much needed bowl of soup while I went for the customary cyclist feed of coffee and cake, followed by ice cream, followed by a coke followed by ....... "well it was bloody hard work" !
With our check in time not till 6pm we lounged around on the foreshore for a couple of hours in the sun with H taking up prime position for close inspection of nearby grass follicles ! Whenever someone walked by him I just simply said "Aussie Road Kill" !
Finally checked in we were able to return to the foreshore for dinner at the only eaterie in town while enjoying a superb sunlit evening !
Sent from my iPad
En route to Applecross - 43kms / 659 metres climbing
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| The road narrows |
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| Kev a trifle nervous at the start of the climb ! |
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| Finally the top ! |
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| One of the passing bays ! |
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| Great views looking back down the climb ! |
Day of Reckoning !
It was the day we'd both been gearing up for, the crossing of the infamous Baleach na Ba. At nearly 900 metres and with some of the steepest road climbs (20% +) in Scotland thsi really is an iconic cycle.
The day didn't get off to the greatest of starts when I awoke to an overpowering smell and for once it wasn't Henley.
Opening our bedroom door confirmed a vomit like odour which our friendly b&b host soon confirmed was caused by one of his large German Shepard dogs, right beside our breakfast table !
Despite it being cleared up it was a tough gig trying to eat a full cooked Scottish breakfast with the gag reflex about ready to go into action !
Making a hasty exit we geared up heading out of town by way of the local Post Office where H duly posted back our room key from our stay with Dermott & Lynette in Inverness - not a bad way to ingratiate yourself.
We didn't have too long to wonder about how steep our climb was going to be when we got slammed by a 20 per center leaving Lochcarron. This isn't even the Applecross climb I said in pained breathing to H.
Eventually we entered a beautiful wildness setting and came across the Applecross turn off with its sign splattered with stickers to indicate its touristy significance.
With 2 days off the bikes we were both cycling well (maybe at least for the first 3-4 kms). The climb gradients kicked off at between 5-10%. Soon though the road narrowed with the verge disappearing while the climb gradient got real serious.
Given we were cycling fully loaded touring bikes it was a job to get to the next passing bay to allow car build ups to get past us. Most drivers were sympathetic but the odd one or two took exception to us being on this narrow mountain road.
As the scenery got more breathtaking so did the roads steepness until we were eventually forced to push our bikes for the last km or so.
The end of the climb finished with short sharp switchbacks that once again provided for stunning views and before we knew it we'd reached the top with Kev grateful to still be alive.
While recovering I took the opportunity to fly the drone over the surrounds before we descended at speed down into the small village of Applecross with outstanding views across the water to Raasay.
After having a welcome celebratory coffee and checking in to our Youth Hostel 3kms out of town, we cycled back in to have dinner on this lovely evening overlooking the shimmering sea.
Tomorrow we continue along the Scottish 500 route to Sheildag where hills are guaranteed once more!
Sent from my iPad
The day didn't get off to the greatest of starts when I awoke to an overpowering smell and for once it wasn't Henley.
Opening our bedroom door confirmed a vomit like odour which our friendly b&b host soon confirmed was caused by one of his large German Shepard dogs, right beside our breakfast table !
Despite it being cleared up it was a tough gig trying to eat a full cooked Scottish breakfast with the gag reflex about ready to go into action !
Making a hasty exit we geared up heading out of town by way of the local Post Office where H duly posted back our room key from our stay with Dermott & Lynette in Inverness - not a bad way to ingratiate yourself.
We didn't have too long to wonder about how steep our climb was going to be when we got slammed by a 20 per center leaving Lochcarron. This isn't even the Applecross climb I said in pained breathing to H.
Eventually we entered a beautiful wildness setting and came across the Applecross turn off with its sign splattered with stickers to indicate its touristy significance.
With 2 days off the bikes we were both cycling well (maybe at least for the first 3-4 kms). The climb gradients kicked off at between 5-10%. Soon though the road narrowed with the verge disappearing while the climb gradient got real serious.
Given we were cycling fully loaded touring bikes it was a job to get to the next passing bay to allow car build ups to get past us. Most drivers were sympathetic but the odd one or two took exception to us being on this narrow mountain road.
As the scenery got more breathtaking so did the roads steepness until we were eventually forced to push our bikes for the last km or so.
The end of the climb finished with short sharp switchbacks that once again provided for stunning views and before we knew it we'd reached the top with Kev grateful to still be alive.
While recovering I took the opportunity to fly the drone over the surrounds before we descended at speed down into the small village of Applecross with outstanding views across the water to Raasay.
After having a welcome celebratory coffee and checking in to our Youth Hostel 3kms out of town, we cycled back in to have dinner on this lovely evening overlooking the shimmering sea.
Tomorrow we continue along the Scottish 500 route to Sheildag where hills are guaranteed once more!
Sent from my iPad
Tuesday, June 25, 2019
Off to Lochcarron !
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| Interesting pub sign in Inverness ! |
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| Looking out from the Strathcarron Pub |
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| Strathcarron |
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| Saying goodbye in Inverness to our 2 great hosts Dermott and Linette ! |
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| Strathcarron |
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